Mollis – Chicken – Nottingham

Mollis – Chicken – Nottingham

Don’t get too excited but I’ve got a few places to write about at the moment. Mostly because I’ve not been keeping up with the happenings as quickly as usual, as you may have noticed. The queue includes Six Richmond House and Jericho, having eaten at both during January. Mollis should probably require the least introduction of these names as its the brainchild of Alex Bond, the man behind Alchemilla. A delayed opening was the result of some construction/renovation challenges and resulted in a successful crowd funding campaign, followed by an updated December launch.

Mollis sits right next door to the fine dining of Alchemilla in the old coach houses of Derby Road. A little trip from the centre of town but just right if you’re having a drink at this end of the city. I recommend the Sir John Borlase Warren. It hides in plain sight as you walk along the traditional brickwork before noticing the distinctive bright door. And from there you’re straight into the action, no real waiting area but an extension of the vibrant artwork you got a glimpse of outside. From the pictures I thought it would be a bit garish but I think it works, its pretty stylish and comfortable as well as hitting that contemporary cool note. The menu is short, pleasingly so, with around a dozen chicken options as well as a vegan bean burger alongside a couple of sides and sauces. One notable thing is the drinks selection, a step up from what you would expect as it calls on the wine cellar and expertise of the Alchemilla team.

As I’d started on the beers earlier that evening I didn’t venture to the interesting cocktail list, so straight to the chicken. I went for the “Sichuan hot oil sandwich” (£12) with charred brassicas (£7) on the side. Everything arrives on metal trays and in enamel bowls these days, I don’t mind it but feel the trend must end at some point! Atop my glistening chicken sandwich was some slaw and fresh coriander, diving straight in I’ll admit I had the gluttons remorse in the shape of a burnt mouth. My pain aside it was clear the chicken was very freshly cooked (at a high temperature!) to get that crispness of batter and moist chicken. You could tell the quality of the bird too, good flavour and very juicy. The rest of the arrangement wasn’t quite so exciting though, I see “Sichuan hot oil” and want a bit of punch but the spicing of it was pretty muted. The brassicas though, I could go back for those alone. Beautifully charred, smokey and with a savoury pickle tang from some magic dressing. Didn’t even need the lovely soft boiled egg on top but I’ll take that as the bonus it was.

The soft serve section is an intriguing mix of flavour combinations including such things as: artichoke, tarragon, liquorice, balsamic. I went for the fairly conventional sounding “banana, PX raisins, honeycomb” (£8). The ice cream itself is luxurious. Seriously luxurious. Thick, creamy and very satisfying and so you do only need the few embellishments on top and its a plenty big enough portion. What was there was also good though, particularly the plump raisins given a grown up twist with the sticky, sweet sherry flavour of PX.

The main talking point about Mollis, that I’ve seen from others, seems to have been the price. That’s part of the conversation for any restaurant of course but I think they suffer in this regard in people expecting chicken to be cheap. Really how we’ve done a disservice to chicken over the years by seeing it as such low prices in the supermarket but the provenance and quality of this in a proper restaurant setting means £12 isn’t too bad. I ended up spending £30 but you should see it as a full experience and appreciate the food, ingredients and setting. Lets not forget a chicken curry at any of the Maid Marian way establishments is £20, chuck in a poppadom and beer and you’re spending £30 there too without dessert. Back to Mollis and it was already good but I will be back because each of the menu options was pretty appealing and that side was so good I’m thinking when can I have it again. If only I knew someone who liked cabbage as much as me…

Restaurant website: www.mollis.uk